Gergeti Trinity Church in silhouette on its ridge, cloud tearing off the snow face of Mount Kazbek behind it at dusk

A hand-picked guide to the best of Georgia.

A private morning in the sulphur baths, a cooking class in a Tbilisi home, a day under Kazbek: the best things to do in Georgia, one kind of day at a time.

See the shortlists
Kazbek and Gergeti at dusk, SeptemberKazbek at dusk, September

Three ways in

Start with what you love.

Three kinds of Georgia tours, private or in a small group.

A clay wine jug and two clay bowls on the rim of a sunk qvevri in a stone marani, in raking lightWine and food toursFamily cellars, harvest days and the supra table. A marani in Gurjaani, Kakheti.See the tours

Above the clouds at Gomismta, Guria

Or pick a region.

  • Wine countryKakhetiკახეთი2 hrs from Tbilisi
  • Towers and glaciersSvanetiსვანეთი9 hrs from Tbilisi
  • The high road northKazbegiყაზბეგი3 hrs from Tbilisi
  • The capitalTbilisiთბილისიAirport 17 km
The bell tower and tiled roof of a Sighnaghi church, the Alazani plain far below in evening hazeThe stone towers of Ushguli in a green valley, SvanetiGergeti Trinity Church on its green hill, the grey rock wall of the Kazbek massif filling the sky behind itThe stone village of Dartlo under stars, TushetiNarikala fortress and the old town of Tbilisi at duskThe Katskhi pillar rising out of forest, ImeretiSunset over the Black Sea at Batumi, Adjara

Sighnaghi, above the Alazani valleyRead the Kakheti guide

When to come.

Choose a season

The Greater Caucasus under snow, seen from the slopes at Gudauri

Winter, December to February

Snow on the Caucasus, steam over the bath houses, and ski lifts that run until April.

  • A chairlift at Gudauri against the winter sunGreater CaucasusSki GudauriDecember to April
  • The brick domes of the sulphur baths in Abanotubani, TbilisiTbilisiThe sulphur bathsAbanotubani
  • The stone towers of Mestia with snow on every roofMestiaSvaneti under snowTowers in white
  • Horses crossing a snowfield at Bakuriani, mirrored in meltwaterTrialeti rangeBakurianiSki town, 1,700 m
  • A glass of amber qvevri wineKakhetiQvevri wineUNESCO listed, 2013
  • Rows of pale chichilaki trees of shaved walnut wood for sale on a Tbilisi pavementTbilisiChichilakiShaved hazel or walnut
  • Crowds with red and white flags in the Alilo procession, Sameba cathedral above the old townTbilisiAliloChristmas, 7 January
  • The walled Ananuri fortress and its domed church above a pale reservoir, snow on the ridges beyondAragvi valleyAnanuriOn the Military Road

The Greater Caucasus, seen from GudauriWhat to book in winter

Judas trees in purple flower on Mtatsminda, the evening sun behind the branches

Spring, March to May

Judas trees flower over Tbilisi in April, and Orthodox Easter falls in April or May.

  • Pink Judas tree blossom in Rike park, TbilisiRike parkTbilisi in bloomJudas trees, April
  • The cave monastery of Vardzia cut into a pale cliffSamtskhe-JavakhetiVardzia12th century caves
  • The Georgian Military Road running through a green valley at SioniKheviThe road to KazbegiThe Military Road
  • The rock-hewn halls of Uplistsikhe under a stone basilicaNear GoriUplistsikheRock-cut town
  • Red Easter eggs on a bowl of sprouted wheatEverywhereOrthodox EasterApril or May
  • Alaverdi cathedral with its tall drum above a stone wall and a green orchardKakhetiAlaverdiThe monks make wine
  • Red-roofed houses and a bell tower of Sighnaghi above a wide green valleyKakhetiSighnaghiOver the Alazani valley

Judas trees in flower on Mtatsminda, above TbilisiWhen to go in spring

Yellow umbrellas and sunbathers on the beach at Batumi, blue sea and green hills behind, in full sun

Summer, June to August

Sun on the Black Sea at Batumi, late nights in Tbilisi, and the road into Tusheti open at last.

  • The long beach and boulevard at Batumi from above, turquoise sea in full sunAdjaraBatumi by the seaBeach season
  • Cafe terraces on Shavteli Street in Tbilisi at nightShavteli StreetTbilisi after darkTerraces, late
  • The switchbacks of the Abano pass with snow patches in summerAbano passInto TushetiOpen from mid June
  • The towers of Ushguli in a bright green summer valleyUshguliMestia to Ushguli on footFour days on foot
  • A river winding through the green Juta valley under snow peaksKazbegiJuta and ChaukhiDay walks
  • Lines of pilgrims walking up a bright green mountain path to LomisaMletaLomisobaAfter Pentecost
  • The stone towers of Shatili on a green slope above a rushing riverKhevsuretiShatiliNo road in winter
  • A small turquoise lake among grey rocks and green slopes under a blue skyKhevsuretiAbudelauri lakesUnder Chaukhi

The beach at Batumi, AdjaraWhen to go in summer

Golden autumn grass on rounded slopes under a jagged grey ridge of the Caucasus

Autumn, September to November

Rtveli, the grape harvest, the supra that follows it, and Tbilisoba in October.

  • Dark grapes on the vine in Kakheti at harvestKakhetiRtveli, the harvestLate September
  • Mtsvadi, grilled meat under onion and pomegranate seedsKakhetiThe supra tableAfter the picking
  • Ushguli in autumn colours under the white wall of ShkharaUshguliGolden SvanetiUnder Shkhara
  • Dancers in black chokha and papakha hats at TbilisobaOld TbilisiTbilisobaEvery October
  • Strings of churchkhela drying in the sun among the vinesKakhetiChurchkhelaWalnuts in grape must
  • The stone cathedral of Svetitskhoveli with its tall conical dome under a grey autumn skyMtskhetaMtskhetoba14 October
  • Orange persimmons hanging from thin branches among the last autumn leavesTbilisiPersimmonsRipe in November
  • Yellow autumn leaves on dark branches against a deep blue skyBorjomiBorjomi gorgeNovember colour

Autumn grass under a Caucasus ridgeWhen to go in autumn

The shortlists.

  1. Sulphur baths in TbilisiChecked 5 Octfrom about $25a person for two, one hour, room only
  2. Georgian cooking classesChecked 6 Octfrom about $36a person
  3. Food tours in TbilisiChecked 6 Oct to 3 Novfrom $50a person
  4. Wineries to visit in KakhetiChecked 6 Octfrom about $6a person
  5. Kazbegi day tripsChecked 29 Sept to 5 Octfrom about $41a person, group of 4
  6. Day trips from TbilisiChecked 29 Sept to 6 Octfrom $39a person
  7. Kakheti wine toursChecked 28 Octfrom $39a person
  8. Private guides in GeorgiaChecked 29 Sept to 29 Octfrom about $67a person a day, for two in one car
  9. Georgia family holidayChecked 6 Octfrom $270a person for 4 days, no hotels, group of 4
  10. Rtveli, the Georgian grape harvestChecked 29 Sept to 3 Novfrom $140a person
  11. Tbilisi airport transfersChecked 11 Nov
  12. Day trips from KutaisiChecked 11 Novfrom $26a person
  13. Supra dinnersChecked 11 Novfrom $57a person
  14. Tbilisi walking toursChecked 11 Novfrom $19a person
  15. Wine tastings in TbilisiChecked 11 Novfrom about $21a person
  16. Vardzia tripsChecked 11 Novfrom $39a person
  17. Skiing in GeorgiaChecked 29 Octfrom $21a seat; pass, gear and lessons extra
  18. BakurianiChecked 11 Novfrom $43a person
  19. Hiking and trekking toursChecked 29 Septfrom $490a person
  20. Wine and food toursChecked 6 Octfrom about $305a person, group of 7
The brick domes of the sulphur baths in Abanotubani, the old town of TbilisiSulphur baths in TbilisiTbilisiTbilisi's sulphur baths: which bath house to book, what an hour costs all in, and how to book it.See the shortlist
An Adjaruli khachapuri boat on baking paper, the yolk whole in the middle of the cheeseGeorgian cooking classesTbilisiThree Georgian cooking classes in Tbilisi compared on price, what you make with your own hands, where you eat and who shares the table.
A narrow lane in old Tbilisi, wooden balconies stacked above it and one person walking throughFood tours in TbilisiTbilisiThree Tbilisi food walks compared on price, length, what you eat and which days they run.
A clay wine jug and two clay bowls on the rim of a sunk qvevri in a stone marani, in raking lightWineries to visit in KakhetiKakhetiA family marani, a historic estate and a wine tunnel in Kakheti: what each costs, when to book and how they fit one day.
The road valley from Juta toward the Chaukhi massif, snow still on the peaks in JuneKazbegi day tripsFrom TbilisiKazbegi in a day from Tbilisi: a private car day or a 4x4 day into Truso, and how each spends the hours at the top.
The stone cathedral of Svetitskhoveli with its tall conical dome under a grey autumn skyDay trips from TbilisiFrom TbilisiMtskheta, Kakheti, David Gareja or Kazbegi: the day out of Tbilisi for your time, your budget and the weather.
The bell tower and tiled roof of a Sighnaghi church, the Alazani plain far below in evening hazeKakheti wine toursFrom TbilisiThree Kakheti wine days from Tbilisi compared on price, cellars, group size and when each one runs.
A green upland valley with a track along the river under bare ridges, Truso, KazbegiPrivate guides in GeorgiaBy the day or the weekThree private ways to see Georgia compared: a four-day trip, one guide for your whole trip, and a driver-guide by the day.
Sunset over the Black Sea at Batumi, AdjaraGeorgia family holidaySeveral daysThree family holidays in Georgia: two with every hotel booked, one cheaper with a driver while you book the rooms.
The stone towers of Ushguli below a brown ridge, the snow of Shkhara behindThe Mestia to Ushguli trekSvaneti, on footFour days on foot between Svaneti's tower villages: the stages, the pass, the river and the way back.

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On the table.

Twenty-six dishes, and the Georgian wine to pour with them.

Georgian food, dish by dish
Four khinkali on a speckled clay plate, the pleats sharp and the tops twisted

The mountains Bread and dough

Khinkali

ხინკალი

Twisted dumplings of spiced meat and broth. Hold the knot, drink the broth first.

A lone Svan tower at Ushguli under the Shkhara glaciers

Georgia is ready when you are.

Start with the hand-picked experiences

Ushguli, under Shkhara